Welcome to Czech Republic!
Day 0: Arrival in Prague
At noon
(Daylight Savings Time), I join the crowd to watch the astronomical clock for the striking of
the hour. The “show” includes the twelve
apostles parading by the two open windows.
Winding my way through the streets, I enter the throng of tourists to walk across the pedestrian Charles Bridge spanning the Vltava River, snapping photos, perusing the crafts, and making a few purchases before going back toward the hotel.
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During dinner in the Little
Quarter on Kampa Island, our group bonds quickly, as if we had known each other for years. On the way to the restaurant, we had passed the
Lennon Wall. The
artwork was incredible, but the large crowd made taking pictures
difficult. In November, my heart missed a few beats
when I saw the headline in our local paper: “Wall dedicated to former Beatle painted over”. I mourned the loss of the
colorful mural, but knowing that it was painted over in green in 2000 gave me hope that
another generation of talented artists will cover it again with imaginative graffiti.
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At the castle complex, the exterior of St. Vitus
Cathedral is impressive, the spires towering above us.
The interior can be appreciated for the various types of artistic styles from the 14th
century Gothic era to modern Neo-Gothic.
The Golden Lane originally
housed castle servants, but it is now a mixture of shops. The crafts are charming, as are the simplistic cottages, but
the cramped quarters make browsing difficult.
Imagine living there! Some of the cottages have mock-ups of life during that era.
Tip: The shopkeepers may not appreciate having tourists take pictures of their shops or crafts. Ask first. |
The Garden on the Ramparts has a restful feel to
it, with gorgeous views over the city.
Rather than returning to Old Town by way of
Castle Town, I choose the steps and trail to reach the
gardens below the ramparts wall before catching the Metro.
I hop on the Metro and head for the Pinkas
Synagogue, now a memorial to the victims of the Nazi regime. The handwritten lists of names of the Czech
Jews who perished in the concentration camps are staggering, running from
floor to ceiling. The children’s drawings in the Terezin Children’s Art Museum
on the second floor are mostly heartbreaking. The pictures were drawn by Jewish
children who were held at the Terezin concentration camp. A predominant
color of their drawings is black or gray.
Surprisingly, red was often used by the children. Photography is prohibited.
Outside the synagogue, the Old Jewish cemetery is heart wrenching. Tombstones are crammed together because of the layers of graves, and they stand haphazardly due to settling earth. I have asked myself countless times: How could it happen? Given our violent world history, why do I continue to question human nature? Brutality runs from century to century.
Outside the synagogue, the Old Jewish cemetery is heart wrenching. Tombstones are crammed together because of the layers of graves, and they stand haphazardly due to settling earth. I have asked myself countless times: How could it happen? Given our violent world history, why do I continue to question human nature? Brutality runs from century to century.
On the Road to Pustevny
Day 3: Pustevny
Maybe it is our age, mostly
Boomers, but a common interest of the group visiting these countries once closed to
travelers is to learn how life has changed for the people since the end of communism. During our bus rides,
George gives a brief summary of that country's history.
On the drive to Pustevny, George speaks about unexpected consequences for the people after communism. A few main points:
Our lunch stop is Stramberk. Fruit trees have been planted along the road into the town by tradition. Centuries ago, the ruler ordered the trees to be planted so travelers could have something to eat along the way, and they also marked the route.
- People who lost company cars and moved out of the cities found that the suburbs
weren’t convenient without a car.
- When company tax breaks ended, the companies threatened to leave if the tax breaks
didn’t continue (sounds like the US).
- Ten to forty percent of pay supports national health care; however,
“private co-pays” change hands for better care.
Our lunch stop is Stramberk. Fruit trees have been planted along the road into the town by tradition. Centuries ago, the ruler ordered the trees to be planted so travelers could have something to eat along the way, and they also marked the route.
Stramberk is picturesque, but not the quiet, little village George had
described. A firefighter’s competition
is in progress, and the town is crowded with spectators and participants,
lively music filling the square. We watch from the restaurant while we eat our excellent lunch. The menu was in Czech, but the waitress knew
English and graciously reviewed the menu with us.
I make a quick trip to the top of the hill behind the town square to see the castle ruins of Strallenberg and climb the tower (Truba). The fog limits visibility, but short views of the forested hills and wooden houses are worth the hurried climb. |